Chris
13 posts
Joined: 28/03/2014 13:32:15
Location: St Joseph de rivière France
sill jacking point removal
Well, just to wrap up this subject, I've managed to find the time to finally put the last bits and bobs back on the car. The modified jacking point, having cut away the actually jacking slot because it won't be used and wasn't pefectly positioned for the sill. I plug welded from the inside after drilling some 7mm holes. The slinging bracket at the rear I just plug welded from the outside, slightly higher than it was originally to let the sill slide under easier. I drilled some 7mm holes in the sill bottom end for plug welding, and I had to drill some holes in the rear panel lip to plug weld from the top as my spot welder arms can't get that close to the body. Positioned and spot welded the door area (the welder passes there), then finished up with the plug welds. A weld on the back and front areas and Bob's your uncle ;)
Posted: May 03, 2015 04:52 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine removal near Cambridge/New Market
I always use a hoist (a) because I'm not very strong (b) I value my back and (c) I've got one anyway.
If you're lifting the body off the subframe (and I actually think that's far and away the easiest method if you've got the space and the height) you need to think carefully about how you're going to do it - getting two strong guys on the front panel may seem like a good idea until it separates from the wings! You can't lift under the wheel arches either, the wings will buckle. I use my hoist with a rope slung between the inner wing support brackets (these are the triangular shaped brackets that you'll see under the bonnet - one on the right just behind the radiator and the other one on opposite side). Failing that, I'd recommend a trolley jack under each footwell, with a stout piece of wood to spread the load, and jack them up simultaneously.
Don't forget to discsonnect the track rod ends before lifting!
Posted: Aug 24, 2006 11:01 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Proper colors
chances are you've got Flame Red but it's best to check the paint code on the chassis plate with some of the really geeky useful websites out there.
The underside should be the same colour as the top although Rover were notorious in the late 80s and 90s for not spraying gloss beyond 20cms inboard of the slinging brackets. They also used to miss the underneath of the door frames. The inner wheel arches and boot interior should all be body colour as well.
The gas tank should be satin black and the retaining strap gloss black.
The interior including the floor should also be body colour but on a '90 model the sound deadening pads were fitted first and then over sprayed.
The only bits of a mini that were ever different to the overall body colour were the matt black bonnets on the works coopers of the 60s and the black or white roof panels on standard coopers depending on age/customer preference.
Various trim levels over the years covered the painted metal with leather/vinyl/cloth but basically the whole car was one colour with a plain or contrasting roof.
Posted: Mar 07, 2010 10:36 PM
Rust repair
Dan, the easiest way is to purchase the British Motor Heritage sill sections already made up. As they're made from the original pressing that are the best fit available. you can get an alternative but I can't vouch for the quality. The BMH sill has all the jacking point and seatbelt mounts included. Each one took me about a week to fit and weld during evenings and weekends. Providing the floorpan is sound inboard of the first groove you won't need to replace the floor.
the BMH sills don't have the subframe mounting brackets in place so you either need to preserve that section and graft the new bit onto it or as I did I used the Hadrian heelboard repair plate to fabricate new captive nut brackets which then weld to the heelboard. You're in for a lot of work and swearing though no matter which way you do it.
you'll need the new tread plates with the lower rear wing section as you'll need to get access to the inside so you can cut the old bits out cleanly and weld in the new bits. (magnum panels fit a treat)
I'll try to post some pics in the photo section so you can see what I did. Don't forget to make up reinforcing bars before you cut ANY metal otherwise it will sag and you'll never get it back together properly.
and don't forget to put the slinging shoes back on afterwards. they are not structural but it just doesn't look right without them.new ones available from BMH.
Posted: Jul 01, 2010 01:33 PM
Front Subframe Change
Here's how I did mine:
Remove bonnet
Remove carb and disconnect exhaust from bodywork
Disconnect all engine electrics
Undo front and rear subframe bolts, and top bolts
Undo steering tie rods
Disconnect brake flexible hoses
Use tow rope to make a sling to lift front of car - pass through the cut-out sections in the triangular bracing brackets that join the bulkhead crossmember to the inner wings
Use engine hoist to lift front of car clear of engine, roll engine out from underneath.
Lower car onto axle stands.
Easy one-man job if you've got an engine hoist - will require some assitance if lifting by hand!
Posted: Sep 25, 2009 09:43 AM